Tuesday, 30 May 2017

Special offers for summer 2017:

As a result of 2 cancellations due to ill-health, we now have:

*Magnolia, ground floor gite available 24th June - 8th July reduced to only 400 Euros per week (sleeps 2)    Also the possibility of a 9/10 day stay from 28th June - 7th/8th July

*Orchard view cottage, 15th - 22nd July reduced from 1300 to 1000 Euros
 (sleeps 6)

Monday, 28 November 2016

Tour de France 2017, Cycling in the Dordogne: where to watch and where to stay....

Had you asked me about the 'tour de France' 10 years ago, I may well have replied " the what ?"!
Cycling was for geting from A to B in the days when I didn't have a car or something for the young and superfit! How times change: even in winter there are groups or individuals of all ages, clad in lycra, speeding along the roads - and from what I've been told this phenomenon seems to have spread to many countries. We've had cyclists from the UK, USA, Canada and New Zealand enjoying the pleasure of the quiet lanes of the Dordogne, whilst staying with us here at Le Jardin des Amis

Although I (Sue) am not a cyclist, it's impossible to live here and not take interest: every time the tv or radio is switched on in early summer, there will be some reference to what is happening and I have found myself on a hot sunny afternoon taking refuge in the shade whilst listening to the latest news about who is wearing the yellow jersey/struggling/favourites/outsiders etc. with an enthusiasm I would never have imagined previously!

This year there was great excitement when we realised just how close to us the 104th Tour de France will be coming - the map below shows where we are in relation the route through this part of the Dordogne (or the Perigord Noir as it is known). Le Jardin des Amis is in the village of Meyrals, sandwiched between Les Eyzies on the Vezere river, 6k to our north, and St. Cyprien on the Dordogne river, 5k to our south.
This was described, by the local radio station, as 'a stage 100% Perigourdine' to take place on
11th July 2017. They went on to say that the 178km between Perigueux will be like a fairy tale, with a tourist tour of the most beautiful landscapes of the Dordogne, and that certainly can't be disputed!

If you like the idea of seeing the Tour de France live, we can offer a range of accommodation to suit all sizes of party & budgets. Fancy at bit of cycling yourself? We can help you with bike hire or for those keen cyclists who wish to bring their own bikes we have secure overnight storage space.
Touring? Choose our self-catering studios for short stays, throughout the year!

For more information please don't hesitate to contact us: www.5dordognecottages.com

Saturday, 30 July 2016

Special offers for August & September

Well, Jon might be cracking the joke that the French are going to 'frog -march' us out of France, but the reality is that life hasn't changed for us down here in the beautiful Dordogne since the 'Brexit' vote and probably won't for some good time to come. Our mayor kindly suggested that he could give us special 'Meyral visas' but hopefully it won't come to that! So for any of you wondering what the welcome will be, I think I can promise that all will be as normal. Just to encourage you, we have some special 'late availability' offers, see below:

Late availability/ special offers :
*20th-27th August –
 Magnolia, 1 bedroom self-catering gite. Sleeps 2.
Reduced from 675 Euros to 400 Euros for the week

*27th August – 3rd September,
Eucalyptus cottage, 1 bedroom cottage with sofa bed in living area. Sleeps 2/3. Reduced from 615 Euros to 395 Euros (1 week, self-catering)
Tilleul cottage, sleeps 8 in 3 bedrooms (2 double, + a 4 bed room) 2 bathrooms. Normally 1250 Euros, reduced to 800 Euros.

*3rd – 10th September
Tilleul cottage, as above, reduced to 695 Euros.

For more information or to book, please email Sue,  enquiries@5dordognecottages.com

Friday, 12 February 2016

Starting a new life in the Dordogne.........or why a February stay isn't always a bad thing!

It's our 9th February living here at Le Jardin des Amis, and probably the wettest! When we first moved here, the lovely French lady who had the task of trying to teach me her language, told me that she hated February and that once the month was over everything cheered up. I was forwarned, but in fact that year, and many since then, have not given us the grey weather that can leave many Northern Europeans (especially SAD's sufferers) feeling very gloomy.

Marqueyssac chateau & gardens

Do not, for a moment, think that this means hot & sunny winter weather because despite looking far south on the map we still have proper winters here and in fact February 2012 was characterised by it's lovely blue skies - and snow! Would anyone want to come on holiday in February? It would be wrong to say that we have a great influx of guests but for the last two years, we have had visiting 'house-hunters' taking advantage of the strength of the pound against the Euro.

It is said that if you're going to buy a new house, try to view it in less than perfect conditions....and that's exactly what our guests have done. For those people who have only visited the Dordogne in July or August, the low season can be either a revelation or a shock. The roads are nearly empty, and it can seem that everywhere is shut up! Investigate a little more and you will find that whilst some business do close for winter, with a little knowledge it is still possible to find plenty of places open to visitors and restaurants happy to welcome diners.
       Above & right: Sarlat on a February market day

 The great thing about this time of year is that for those who dislike crowds, virtually everywhere can be visited in relative peace: climb up the winding cobbled street to Beynac castle and not only will you be rewarded with wonderful views but you won't have to squeeze into line to look at them!  Instead of queuing for tickets for many of the amazing caves of the area, walk straight in and enjoy! In fact our current guests went to see the renowned prehistoric paintings in the 'Font de Gaume' cave, just up the road in Les Eyzies and were on a tour with just 4 other people: something of a contrast with the crack of dawn queueing system required in peak season.

Below: The imposing Chateau de Beynac

 There are downsides of course - you will need to pack some warm clothes and (this year at least) an umberella, but there is so much fascinating history and beautiful scenery you won't be disappointed!

 School holidays in France work on a 'zone' system, meaning that different areas of France have time off on different dates, with half - term spread out from early February - early March.This is mainly aimed at helping the ski resorts to cater for more guests. In practice, for areas like the Dordogne, it means that many attractions open for the start of the holiday but have a gentle increase in numbers rather than a huge rush.
The Dordogne river

Coming back to house hunting - this need not be just a pipe dream. For those thinking of moving to the beautiful Dordogne and living the French life, a quick scan of the 'Maison a Vendre' (houses for sale) websites reveals that there is something to suit everyone from the 49,000€ 'needs some work' end of the scale up to chateaux in the 2,000,000€+ category! What are you waiting for?

 Did we follow the recommendation to visit the area in different seasons - I'm afraid not. In our case the appeal of a new and totally different life made us throw caution to the wind and we visited the Dordogne just once before coming to live here! when we visited Le Jardin des Amis on a beautiful sunny Sunday in May. The sky was blue, the lunchtime wine was red and the roses were blooming: what was there to say no to? Fortunately we've never regretted it!

If you'd like to come and stay in spring, we are flexible on arrival and departure days, to fit in with reduced flight availability - just email us with your requirements.

Wednesday, 22 July 2015

Via-ferrata challenge!

 I've often reflected on why the Perigord Noir (our part of the Dordogne department) is so popular and attracts so many return visitors: obviously it's very pretty and in summer,  the weather is usually sunny and pleasantly warm but the most important thing is probably that there is something for everyone.
La Dordogne & boats from the via ferrata
Despite having lived here for almost 8 years, we still have places we haven't yet visited and activities we haven't yet tried, so are always grateful to guests who can give us the lowdown on where they've enjoyed visiting or have tales to tell about activities the've enjoyed. For sight-seers, the list goes on and on - you could stay a month and not have managed to get around to visiting all of the beautiful villages/chateaux/caves/scenic views in the area  - unless you decide to go for the easy option and float over it all in an early morning hot air balloon!
Tweety pie flies over Meyrals!

For those who like active holidays (or have children to wear out) there is plenty on offer. Recent guests came back from Les Eyzies having enjoyed an excellent couple of hours exploring the local area on horseback, whilst another couple with young children had a terrific holiday out an about on bikes - neither of which are things that I've done, being scared of horses and too lazy for cycling!

Kitted out and under instruction!
Sometimes the attractions are the least expected: lots of our guests visit gardens whilst here, and Marqueyssac gardens are particularly well know for their fantastic views over the Dordogne and Le Roque Gageac, but the ticket price also includes free entry to the challenge of the Via Ferrata. Wearing a harness and helmet, and clipped onto a wire rope, one can spend 40 minutes negotiating around the cliff face, 100 metres above river level: a great challenge for all from 8 years upwards.....including Grandma (me, Sue). Having braved it once a couple of years ago, I decided to return with friends/guests just so that I could take the photos that I'd been too scared to take the previous time!
Ready for the off!
Guest, Tim, reflected in a mirror at the start

There are some 'thought provoking' moments!


I think all of us - 2 oldies, 2 x '40 somethings' and 2 students all felt a sense of acheivement at the end.......and the 10 year olds behind us thought it was "cool"!

  In the same vein, there are several airparcs in the area

where anyone from 3 years old to adult can swing through the trees - just for the fun of it & a good way to get some shade on a very sunny day!
Impressive cliffside below Marqueyssac gardens
Another enjoyable(and more relaxing) way to visit Marqueyssac  is on the 'candlelit' evenings held each Thursday in summer, when there is live music and children's activities.


 The very hot and sunny weather we've been having over the last few weeks has meant that our table tennis table/badminton & other games equipment has been a little less used than normal but the pool has never been more popular!

Although there's nothing like a reviving dip in the pool after a day out, the fun of river dipping can be very memorable (& sometimes unintentional during spirited canoe jousting)!
For younger children, one of the life-guarded river beaches on the Dordogne makes a great afternoon out, especially one for one of our young guests who'd just had a snorkel for his birthday!

Beynac castle -view from a canoe
  Older teenagers & adults might like to whisked along in the faster (but shallow) stretches especially in the 'cingles' or loops of the river!
 Canoe trips on both the dordogne &  Vezere are a great family activity and guaranteed to use up excess energy as well as being the one of the best ways to see the majesty of the chateaux lining the Dordogne. To quote Ratty in Wind in the Willows, "there's nothing like messing about in a boat"!
Jon, after the Via Ferrata, enjoying a celebratory icecream at the Garden cafe!

Wednesday, 24 June 2015

A taste of South West France: food glorious food!

For anyone who chances upon our website, whether on a grey and drizzly day in London or Dublin; a freezing day in Vancouver; or a  hot and humid day in Sydney or Los Angeles....., the beautiful, green and plentiful Dordogne could seem to be the dream place to combine work and a wonderful lifestyle.
We feel lucky to be able to live here but now and again it's good to see the place from a new angle - and on this occasion from the point of view of food.
Charlotte, Gariguette, Mara de bois, Clary, Elegance: just a few of the strawberry varieties available
Every Sunday, without fail, we toddle down to our local market in St. Cyprien to fill a basket with fresh local, seasonal produce. Often I will visit another local market during the week to buy more freshly picked vegetables and fruit - spinach (epinards) and kiwi fruit in winter, salad stuff and strawberries in summer. However, we've often stopped and looked at some of the things that we'd never eaten in the UK and dithered about what to buy or how to cook it if we buy it!

For those with less than perfect French, it can be daunting to look at, for example, a foie gras stall and understand the subtle differences between the products on offer. I'm certain that many visitors to the Dordogne feel just the same, but help is at hand. In the hamlet of Pechboutier, only a 5 minute drive from us here in Meyrals, is the Chevrefeuille restaurant and cookery school, run by Sara and Ian Fisk, an English couple who have lived in France for 14 years.

Ian & students

Since some of our guests came back raving about their day at the cookery school, last spring, I have been itching to give it a try! As a home economist, earning a crust by giving cookery demonstations in my pre-kids days, and latterly a food technology teacher, I love cooking but was a little sceptical about how much I would learn. Happily, my scepticism was misplaced!

Local goat's cheese on Le Bugue market

Our little group of four started with the day with a trip to the market at Le Bugue, where Ian (chef) filled in the gaps in our knowledge. For the other 3 ladies (all American) this was the perfect chance to see the wonderful range of locally produced foods available and there were lots of exclamations of delight and declarations of what they would be buying on their next market trip, whilst for me it was great to feel that next time I'm there, I will be able to confidently discuss what I want to buy with the stallholders, whether it's selecting the perfectly aged Cabecou cheese, duck for confit or correct variety of strawberries for my dessert .

Ian demonstrating a luscious soup recipe
Ian doesn't have a set menu that he shops for: like all of the best chefs, he adapts according to the best available produce. We returned from the market with a whole fresh foie gras, cheese, lots of vegetables and ceps to be cooked along with some of Ian and Sara's home grown cherries, walnuts and apples.

Dordogne walnuts & apples - to accompany foie gras poele
The rest of the day was a whirl of cooking and eating: the course is very much hands-on with everyone involved in the cooking (and of course, eating) of the meal. Ian is a good teacher - not at all  like the image of the shouting chef! For those who want to learn in a sociable and relaxed atmosphere, I can thoroughly recommend Le Chevrefeuille cookery course.  I now have new recipes, lots of tips which will make entertaining less stressful, and I no longer feel intimidated by ingredients that I'd not used before - result!

preparing a fresh foie gras for cooking - my turn!

At 5pm, after a very extended lunch.....and feeling that I might not need to eat for several days, we said our goodbyes. This isn't a cheap day out but what you learn will stay with you - and it would make a great treat for someone special! Ian also does the market trip on it's own and this would make an excellent start to a holiday for all foodies.
Cabecou in puff pastry with cherry & walnut garnish

The cookery courses run during spring/early summer and autumn when the markets are less crowded and Ian has more time on his hands but not during July& August.  For more information follow this link  www.cookerycoursedordogne.com

For those keen cooks who would like to combine a long weekend or short break with a day at the cookery school, email us to discuss your requirements. We can be flexible on arrival and departure days in our studios (ideal for a couple or two friends) and, outside high season, in our larger cottages for groups or families.

Who can resist chocolate - with added tips for making it dinner-party friendly?
..............And the resulting 'fondant chocolat'

Sunday, 3 May 2015

Life in the Perigord: the literary connection........

Like many people, when I'm planning to go visit a new country or area, I try to do some reading in advance to give me a bit of a feel for the place. Surprisingly or maybe not in the circumstances, when we decided to move to the Dordogne, this wasn't on my list of priorities: I think that the shock of finding ourselves in the situation of having made a spur of the moment decision to 'up sticks' and move to France meant that I was too busy sorting out practicalities! We had never visited the 'Perigord', as locals prefer to call it, until the weekend when we decided that Le Jardin des Amis was for us.

As I've said in previous blogs, our guests are a great source of information on everything from world geography, to the best coffee they've found in the area. Every year I can rely on someone finding something or somewhere new to visit  and this has, in some cases come about as a result of their 'pre-holiday' reading. Obviously there are many guide books and accounts of the history of the region out there but sometimes, it is stories (fiction or real life) which have actually propelled our guests to the region.

American guests who stayed with us last year, introduced me to the 'Inspector Bruno' series which they had heard about because their author (Martin Walker) spends some of his time working in their home city of Washington. The Inspector Bruno novels are set in the well described, and thinly disguised town of St. Denis - in reality our nearby town of Le Bugue. As in Le Bugue, the St. Denis' of the stories is an attractive little market town built on the banks of the Vezere river (above & below). I recommend a trip to the tuesday morning market where you can soak up the ambiance to keep in mind when you read the books: fortunately the frequent murders and intrigue are a figment of the author's imagination!

Another author that I was introduced to by guests, some years ago, was Patricia Atkinson. Not fiction this time but the real life story of her arrival in the Dordogne, the creation of a vineyard and her transformation into a producer of well respected wines! 'The Ripening Sun', conjures up perfectly what it is like to move to a small rural French village. Our guests went off to find her vineyard and buy some of her wine to try to complete the picture, but for those who like an easy life, the wine is available in a very good wine shop with branches in both Le Bugue & Sarlat.

For an amusing read which gives a flavour of the region and it's inhabitants, 'The Matchmaker of the Perigord' is a relaxing pool-side novel which you may find in our pool bar library, above .......unless someone else got there first!